Thursday 27 August 2015

Loitokitok

It’s now time to introduce Loitokitok properly. Loitokitok, or Oloitokitok, bordering Tanzania, lies in the Southern part of Kenya and it is part of the Kajiado County. The reasons why Loitokitok is well known in Kenya is because of the view you get from there and for its population. Mount Kilimanjaro, the highest mountain in Africa and the highest dormant volcanic mountain in the world, is located just across the border with Tanzania and it is perfectly visible from all angles of the village. Even though it has been my view for over three months from everywhere I was, I have never stopped being amazed by its beauty. The population of Loitokitok is formed mainly of Masai people: it is in fact, inhabited by very traditional tribes like the one mentioned.
On the road 


Mt. Kilimanjaro 


Loitokitok does not have clubs or other places where young people can hang out. Life is very different and there is no such concept of “let’s go chill at the pub” for the youth. We found, however, several bars around the village, way more than you could expect by this little town. The customers were almost exclusively adult men. According to Kenyan ideology of life, responsibilities and image, women at the bar were often associated with prostitution or considered like someone who ‘lost their way’. Teenagers also were not well seen if at the bar. Smoking a cigarette in public for a woman was as much as offensive, if not more. We, Uks, had difficulties to adapt to these concepts especially when, after a long day at work, all we could think of was to enjoy a nice beer in the sunshine. On the other hand, we have learnt how to remain ourselves and respecting the local culture at the same time: for example, we were not smoking a cigarette or consuming an alcoholic drink in public but only in secure places. We made sure not to offend the locals, especially the elderly. I have to mention how sometimes we did meet very nice people who with our big surprise understood our cultural differences and invited us to try a drink or to chat at the bar. The village nearby Loitokitok, Kimana, had instead several clubs and pubs and there it was easier for us to relax a little bit. We had the opportunity to enjoy the African music and to have fun as a team in one of the clubs there, Golden Dream. I will never forget that place.

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Around town
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Loitokitok Saturday Market: chaos.
Loitokitok has lots of small shops which would be the same of our convenience stores, selling basically everything but with no variety among each other, all the same goods: sweets, toilet paper, coffee, sugar and so on. Besides schools or workplaces, we found few shops selling stationery, few tailors, few eating places (very basic), one internet cafe with nine computers and one small supermarket: the only place where we could buy “Western” things. That was pretty much it. However, on Tuesdays and Saturdays everything was happening at the market area, in the very centre of the town where vegetables and fruits were exposed to buyers everywhere. During our time off from placements, we usually met up at Boma La Tumaini, the HIV and Women Support Centre of Loitokitok that also had a public “garden” on the front which was perfect for us to relax.


Tuesday 25 August 2015

The host family

Three days after our arrival in Loitokitok it was time to meet our new families. My Kenyan living counterpart was a lovely girl from Mombasa but studying in Nairobi who now consider as a sister. Host families were usually known as Mama and the name of the mother of the family. In my case my ‘mother’ was the director of a Christian school of a near village, Kimana, and that was how she was known around, with the name of the school. My counterpart and I were the last pair to be picked up from the guest house. We arrived at the house, a compound in the centre of the village, closed to all the main shops and other places like the market area and the ICS offices. Our home was the only one in the centre of Loitokitok, hence, we were the only volunteers not having other of us living nearby. I remember entering the house and thinking how pretty it was: there was a television, couches, a dinner table and lots of drawings on the wall. My host family in fact  had six children. There were mum and dad, the oldest son of 20 years old who was not currently living there, as the oldest sister, 13 years old: they were both living at their school camp. Two other sisters of 11 and 9, a little brother of 4 years old and a little baby, just a bit over one year old. Part of the family and living with us, was one of the teachers of the school where my host mum worked and the housekeeper, a young girl of only 19 years old. So when my counterpart and I moved in we were an over all of 10 people: we sometimes arrived having to share this three bedrooms house with 14 other people. My counterpart and I shared a very small room with bunk beds: even though the space was little and adapting to share so much of our personal space was hard, we managed to make it nice and we have learnt how to feel comfortable in it. We were also lucky enough to have electricity in the house most of the time, except for ‘no electricity Thursdays’ and sometimes running water; differently, in some other host families, our fellow volunteers had to adapt to live without electricity and very little water. My house had an inside bathroom with latrine and shower and one latrine outside which was shared with our neighbours. Living in this little house with so many people was really hard for me and my counterpart especially because of the lack or limited resources of water and food. However, our host parents were amazing and they did their best to provide us with everything we needed. Looking back I think the hardest part of living with a host family is passing from feeling a guest to feel part of the family. During the first few weeks it was a real challenge for us to understand how to behave and to get to know the family habits.
During the three months another housekeeper came to stay with us as the younger one had to go back to school soon. This time was an older lady, mother and probably grandmother of others. I am quite sure she has never been in such close relation with a white skin colour person before and sometimes that was obvious and awkward: especially at the beginning she was touching my hair, my skin, my clothes or simply looking at me walking around the house, doing my hand washing or eating ugali (the typical Kenyan meal) with my hands. I am sure this last one was the funniest part for her, and somehow for me too. It has not been easy for me trying not to make our skin difference a difference. I remember during our pre departure training, trainers reminded us that sometimes there will be distinctions on how they will treat us from our counterparts: it may happen that locals would be treated more like family in the house or like colleagues at the placements by speaking Swahili in front of us, for example. Contrarily, it may happen that host families or placement people may treat us ‘Uks’ with more regards and accommodate our needs more than our Kenyan brothers or sisters’ because seen like visitors or guests. In few occasions this was exactly what happened to me and my sister in the family with the housekeeper, causing several upsetting moments. On the other hand, my counterpart and I became really close also because of this and we were soon able to support and help each other to feel better, like sisters.
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Typical Masai jewellery hanged on the living room wall 
Living in a host family with such different culture from mine was not only difficult though and it is important for me to point it out. Surely sometimes I felt alone and far away from my family and the culture I come from but the fact that I have learnt so much of the Kenyan and Masai culture, the fact that I got to know and live with amazing inspiring people and amazing children just made the whole experience easier and worth it. As I already mentioned, my mum was the director of a school which also was a rescue centre for girls who escaped early marriages and Female Genital Mutilation: my mum was an active campaigner against these traditional practices and several times she managed to save some of these girls and bring them to the school. During holidays my family took some of these young girls home and allowed them to stay with us even though we were already a numerous family. This was something that made me extremely proud of my Kenyan family and happy to be with them. Chatting all together after dinner, watching movies together, playing with the children during the weekend, going to church with them, laughing of my funny Swahili, are all beautiful unforgettable memories. Among other things, they taught me the importance of valuing the family and small things; they taught me to share the little I have with as many people as possible because the happiness you will see in their faces repays all the difficulties you may be going through. I consider myself lucky for the host family I ended up staying with and lucky because I have received so much love from who used to be total strangers but now genuine is to call them mum and dad.

Thursday 20 August 2015

THE BEGINNING

Hi there.
My name is Caterina and I would like to share my story as an ICS volunteer.
ICS, International Citizen Service,  is a governmental funded programme that aims to send overseas thousands of young volunteers aged between 18 and 25 , each year. The purpose of the programme is to help disadvantaged communities by working with local organisations in addition to offer a cultural exchange between the hosting country and the volunteers being hosted. Last December I was selected to live in Kenya for three months with other UK volunteers and Kenyan ones in order to secure livelihoods in a small village of Southern Kenya called Oloitokitok. Each of us English volunteers will have to be paired up with a Kenyan volunteer to work with and we will also have to be paired up with a different local volunteer to live with in a host family. My programme started last February and I returned in the UK on May 2015; when I left I had no idea those three months were going to be the most challenging and exciting months of my life and that they would have changed me so much. But let’s start with order: pre departure training and departure.


                                                     
Before leaving the UK, I had the opportunity to meet my future mates during our pre departure training which was held at the University of Lancaster in early January. We spent three days together trying to prepare ourselves for the upcoming adventure as well to get to know each other. We did group activities to learn how to work together as a team, regarding cultural differences and on what to expect when facing problems within the team. We also had sessions on the Kenyan culture and we received small tips on do’s and dont's once in Kenya. My first impressions were really positive and, as it has been confirmed later, all the people in that room in Lancaster were simply amazing. In my team we were six girls and two guys who slowly became like a second family to me. The ICS experience started to teach me something since this training. During those days I have learnt that other people may live the same experience of mine differently: because I had previously volunteered in Africa I somehow thought I knew what to expect however, I have forgotten that for some of them this will be the first time volunteering overseas. More we were talking about the programme, more I realised how different from previous experiences this one it was going to be for me too: living in a local host family with a local volunteer only is a challenge I had never done before and I had no idea what to expect anymore. The pre departure training left me with an amazing feeling that I had something to give and to offer as well as others have so much to teach me and I was looking forward to start learning.  I came back in London with only one though: I wanted to leave as soon as possible. A month later, on the 11th of February 2015 our plane took off. Finally.


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UK volunteers on the day of departure


First 'matatu' ride for us

We arrived in Nairobi completely exhausted on the 12th of February during a very hot afternoon: the project coordinators of the three ICS placements in Kenya (Oloitokitok, Machakos and Nanyuki) came to pick us up at the airport. They drove us to a near hotel where we would have to stay for three days for our in country training. This was the original plan. However, once arrived, we were told we will have to leave immediately for our separate locations. At the hotel there were many young local guys here and there chatting and staring at us probably because of our skin. Already knackered from the one day of travelling, the eight of us assigned to the Oloitokitok community slowly jumped in the van which was going to bring us to destination. It was only when we sat down in the van that we realised that the locals around the hotel were actually our other half of the team! After five more hours of travelling we managed to arrive to our new 'home': we arrived to one of the local guest houses where we will soon feel like at home. That guest house will soon become the place of numerous days and nights of fun for us.

The cycle two Loitokitok team socialising together for the first time